Flowbench Calibration for Dummies! - Flowbench Calibration for Dummies!

[bpowell]

In the course of leak testing and using the calibrated orifice plates we found/created a problem (bruce, the test orifice plates are SWEET!). We now realize that 2" drywall screws into the edge of 3/4" particle board will not hold the cabinet together. During exhaust testing with the bowls closed we get a WC of ~29"! The worst section (crack/leak) is where the 45* wall (that holds the bowls), is screwed to the outer cabinet wall. Take a look at the outer surface of the cabinet...

[bpowell]

Here's an inside view. Time to re-seal and add additional bracing (2x2's and threaded rod). More to come.

[MMack]

Thanks for the info about your findings. I will have to make sure I am braced and have the allthread in place.

How did you seal your valves/bowls? I am struggling with this right now.

Mike

[Thomas Vaught]

Weren't we just having a conversation with a member about the potential of blowing out the side of a flow bench a few days ago?

Tom V.

[bpowell]

I got it back together and all seems well. Internal bracing, rod support, construction adhesive and more screws, here's a visual...

[bpowell]

another...

[bpowell]

and another...

We used silicone to seal the bowls, ended up doing this two times to get it right. We added silicone spray to the backs of the bowls to reduce sticking.

[Thomas Vaught]

BPowell, I just noticed your check valves.

Those some of the Sewage flapper valves from Home depot?

Tom V.

[bpowell]

Tom, we did get these at The Home Depot but we used a toilet floor mount, short piece of 3" pipe, 3" coupler and a internal 3" to 1 1/2" adapter. The adapter is flat on one side and we mounted a hand cut 1/8" rubber flap to this flat side with two screws. They actually work pretty good but might be more expensive than the sewer valves due to more parts. I would guess we had $50.00 in all four of them. Here is a picture from the outside, don't currently have any of the inside.