DIY what/how stle of Head Adapters u use?

[FPV_GTp]

Hi

What Head Adapters system are you using to connect to the flow bench ?

How do you centralize the adapter on the cylinder head ? to mimic the bore of the engine?

What material have you made you head adapter out of ?

How universal is you head adapter plate to suit a variety of different cylinder heads?

How do you secure the head adapter to the flow bench and cylinder head ? to get a perfect seal both ends ?

Can we have some pictures showing the head adapter in detail.

Any information would be appreciated

cheers

[MrHijet]

Hi,

Have you seen following thread(s) ?




There are many details discussed already.

Cheers,

Daniel

[FPV_GTp]

[FPV_GTp]

6" EZ Flow System's Bore Adapter
scroll down half way and veiw the adapters

What method do you use to centralize the cylinder head for testing with the right size bore adapter ?


cheers

[bruce]

I think one thing that would be interesting would be a chart for the hole locations for various heads. A database of some sorts that all users on the forum would have access to?

[blaktopr]

Pic is on the second page. I made mine pretty easy and is working well so far. I been only working on the intake side though. A stronger attachment to the bench will be needed. Lowes has rubber for making shower pans. You just cut off what you need. I will be using that over the silicone/paper gasket I am using now, testing the bench and having fun.

[FPV_GTp]

Hi

Doesn't it suck when something is on your mind and you cant sleep. All different ideas and thoughts going through my head on how to make my cylinder head adapter.

The cylinder head adapter I have started to make and it will be of universal self locating ( so all bore to combustion chamber is centralized automatically ) no guess work.

It maybe a bit heavy but the bench will be holding it not ME

Yeah one can say I'm counting my chickens before the eggs have hatched. That's right I haven't yet got any sort of flow bench ready or even for that matter started.

The other day I scored a huge suctions/blower fan that was used to extract fumes from a powder coating booth.

The motor is rated at 7kw and three phase power it has two 4.75in diameter suction ports. I think I have my air source now . Put it this way when I powered it up and turn it on if my cat had walk past the ports it would of been sucked in. It has sum decent sucking power.

Haven't connect any manometer to see what it pulls but it is strong. Might need a 20ft tall manometer.

Once full completed the cylinder head adapter I will post some pictures

cheers


PS : Bruce have you done any further work on the eddy current engine dynamometer I read on your website ?

A nice universal dyno controller to control eddy current dynos and a a waterbrake absorber would awesome.

[FPV_GTp]

Bruce have you done any further work on the eddy current engine dynamometer I read on your website ?

On this page you will find the construction of my Eddy Current Dynamometer.

A nice universal dyno controller to control eddy current dynos and a a waterbrake absorber would awesome.

Maybe you should start a Engine/chassis dynamometer forum also or add a section on here. Just a idea.

The adsorbent prices the commercial dynamometer manufactures want for their PC electronics/hardware/software makes the average hobbyist want a dynamometer in his shed at home cry.

With a group effort and some of you electronics wizards maybe this could be another source of entertainment.

Also some sort of Data Acquisition system side by side with the dynamometer controller.

When it comes to electronics I'm hopeless so leave the idea up to you guys.

A speed sensor , strain gauge / load cell and a stepper motor or servo motor to control water inlet or outlet or both on a water brake absorber ?????? Just a few ideas I'm sure there are plenty people want a engine or chassis dyno at home to assist in engine development.

[Moriniman]

[bruce]

[Tony]

I am building an eddy current chassis dyno, complete with a proper speed/load control system, have been for quite some time.
It is 2WD, but if I can find another similar dyno frame it will probably end up being 4WD.

Unfortunately this project has completely stalled for financial reasons.
I know EXACTLY how to do this, and what is required.
One day I will be able to finish it, and when I do, full technical details will be shared here.

[FPV_GTp]

[FPV_GTp]

Hi Tony , yes eddy current dyno is not a bad idea heaps of telma retarders http://www.telmausa.com/telma_htm/default.htm of trucks and buses and many other machinery that needs braking assistance power boosting.

What controller are you going to use? I have a 650max dyno dynamics chassis dynamometer , for what material there is in it its not worth the money they charge for one .


Have a look at dynodynamics website and have a look how they make their eddy current dynamometer and engine adapter stands.

Dynodynamics have a 850E twin retarder water cooled engine dynamometer , I think that's the model number form memory a awesome piece of machinery , I almost purchased one form MIck Scot From Dandy Performance when he closed up his dyno section of the operations and then sold up his business Dandy Performance and moved to Queensland when he retired. Was a beautiful piece of machinery.

Much faster controlling of engine RPM/LOAD with a eddy current retarder as the load absorber.

Heenan and froude brought out some nice eddy current dynamometers a single and a twin eddy current retarder water cooled setup. There are quite a few floating around the country and I think there would be heaps more in the USA .

A lot of colleges used them and in the electrical industry testing electric motors and IC engines.

I have three Heenan and Froude engine dynamometers G4 , GB4 and the big banger G490EH waterbrake engine dynamometers.

Have looked into computer controlling my Heenan and Froude engine dynamometers but not a cheap exercises.

Had several hours up my sleeve and made a adapter plate and some dowel pins I just finished cylindrical grinding them to size. The hole diameters in the falcon 6 cylinder head are all over the place in size and not to mention you look down the bolt hole and you can see two steps as if they drilled the holes from one side then rotated the head and drilled the holes from the other side of the head surface. Not properly aligned the holes but since the heads hare doweled in the block and head in two locations the head fits perfectly on the engine block. Since the head bolts are 12mmby1.5mm pitch and the head bolt holes are 13.25mm in the head making possible to bolt up.

Two adapter plate are specifically designed for 92mm bore size 4litre 6 cylinder Falcon E series and B series cylinder heads and the mite 351/302 Ford Cleveland engines 4 inch bore which will also fit the windsor engines as they share the same bore size and bolt spacing's.

And not to mention my universal adapter for the others that I have intentions of testing. In total three adapters .

Dam work lathe Z axis travel stopped today will investigate Monday what's going on.

Bruce Winter is a good time to catch up with projects on hold as one spends more times indoors. Don't know how cold it get there where you are but winter can be dam cold in Melbourne and tools are the last thing I like touching in the morning.

For some reason I can't post pictures in this forum ? attachments is not working or I'm doing something wrong. Is there a How to post pictures instructions in this forum ??

cheers

[Tony]

The speed/load control system for my Telma is entirely home made. It is designed so it can control either one Telma retarder or two (for four wheel drive). Although I only have one roller frame and one retarder for it at this stage.

All the parts of the whole system have been prototyped, and all parts tested, but I now have to build it up properly to test it as a complete system. I believe my methjod of doing this is fairly unique, but it all works extremely well.

The basic idea, is that there is a central master oscillator, the frequency of which sets the desired road speed.

Each dyno has a slotted wheel fitted to the rollers, and this outputs a frequency proportional to roller speed. The phase/frequency of the roller output frequency is compared to the master oscillator frequency, and retarder load is adjusted with a PID controller to hold the rollers to the speed set by the master oscillator.

So you could have four wheel drive, or even six wheel drive, each dyno speed locks onto the master oscillator frequency. The dynos do not try to lock onto each others speed.

This controls the power to each retarder independently. While everyone else uses a phase controlled rectifier to supply the high dc current to the retarder windings, I prefer to use high frequency pulse width modulation from a high voltage dc supply. This responds much faster, and controls significantly better than mains phase control. I have done a lot of work on this part of it, and am pretty pleased with the dynamic response of the retarder.

That is the grand plan.

[FPV_GTp]

Hi Tony , what is your main stream working background ?

"This controls the power to each retarder independently. While everyone else uses a phase controlled rectifier to supply the high dc current to the retarder windings, I prefer to use high frequency pulse width modulation from a high voltage dc supply. This responds much faster, and controls significantly better than mains phase control. I have done a lot of work on this part of it, and am pretty pleased with the dynamic response of the retarder.

That is the grand plan........ "


Tony seems you have a few nice ideas on the dyno topic could be a winner and generate some revenue to work on you project.

Like I said in one post there are a lot of hobbyist wishing they had a engine/chassis dynamometer in their possession to do their own testing. But some dyno systems are just way out of reach of the hobby enthusiasts purely cause of the exorbitant costs that are involved.

Would be interesting to see some of the dyno pictures and some more information.



Finally repaired my lathe disassembled the cross-slide table top and had a view inside the gearbox section and sure enough sheared a cotter pin on the pinion drive shaft.

Drain all the oil out and found piece of the pin in the bottom of the case. Clean out the case and place a new cotter pin into the pinion-gear and shaft . Tried it manually and all was working no issues or why the pin had broken and dislodged.

The automatic feed engage gear which is made out of brass has excessive wear patterns in the tooth section but still has plenty of life left in it. Will repair this another day as there is a fine adjustment detent load spring that will take up the wearing in the gear.

Assembled and new oil placed in the case and working once again will endeavour to complete the adapters this week.

A friend had a copy of " HYPERFLOW , unleash the power , How To Build A Flowbench " which i read over the weekend. I found it to be a very interesting read.

Also found some this interesting read

Back to work

cheers