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Tractorsport Flowbench Forum Archive • View topic - Building a Water Brake

Building a Water Brake

Postby 106-1194218389 » Tue Oct 14, 2008 8:53 pm

106-1194218389
 

Postby Dave W » Tue Oct 14, 2008 9:28 pm

pictures would be great.

Wing 64, you run URC
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Postby Dave W » Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:09 pm

Did you guys run NES a few weeks ago.
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Postby FPV_GTp » Fri Oct 17, 2008 12:05 am

[quote="wing64k"][/quote]
You could invest in a depac waterbrake dyno control system depend how deep your pockets are

New Load Control Technology from DEPAC www.depac.com is a Significant Advancement to control the simple water brake.


one stepper motor controls a gate valve of some sort of orientation and a PC interface. around $16000USD

I'm sure there are some electronics wizards that could cook some sort of system up , it is beyond me though.

cheers
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Postby Dave W » Fri Oct 17, 2008 5:51 pm

I'M trying to keep it under 4,000.00. I'm starting out basic and will expand later. The load valve will be manual for now. Got a good price on aluminum the other day. I was looking at making the brake out of plastic like teflon or nylon but got blown away by the price. Depac is a good site I just don't have the dough.

Dave
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Postby 86rocco1 » Fri Oct 17, 2008 6:13 pm

Just curious, how much would it cost to outfit a water brake with a Depac control system?
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Postby bruce » Fri Oct 17, 2008 7:20 pm

On my old hard drive I had a bunch of pictures of the insides of various water brakes I collected off the net over the years. I do not have access currently to that hard drive but I'll see what I can do to get those pics back.

Somewhere on here I posted some pictures of the water brake I had started on before I stumbled into my eddy current unit. I used a piece of heavy wall tube that I could drill and tap end holes. I then made end plates that would seal with o-rings and hold my bearings. I still have those parts laying around in my shop. My end plates did not have blades(?) on but after looking at the Land-Sea style water brake I'd add them. The rotating assembly on a Land-Sea style brake is solid alum with the blades machined in, easy machining if you have CNC can be done manually on a mill with a rotary table though.
"There is no more formidable adversary than one who perceives he has nothing to lose." - Gen. George S. Patton
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Postby Dave W » Fri Oct 17, 2008 7:36 pm

yes basically will try to duplicate the land and sea model.
On the impeller did it look the the one on page 37


Got machinist going to help me.

how to most impellers mount to the shaft. I cant see a press fit. I will probably put a flange.
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Postby bruce » Fri Oct 17, 2008 7:48 pm

Yes that was one of my references.

You could pin the impeller to the shaft, I'm sure it could be done numerous ways
"There is no more formidable adversary than one who perceives he has nothing to lose." - Gen. George S. Patton
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Postby Dave W » Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:13 pm

Bruce do you know how deep the impeller fins are on the L&S model 13". I know he said the ends were about 3/4" deep
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Postby 106-1194218389 » Sat Oct 18, 2008 1:52 am

I do not know if this will help or not. It is a link to another forum and has a couple of shots of the inside of a water brake.

John
106-1194218389
 

Postby Tony » Sat Oct 18, 2008 2:07 am

To my way of thinking, casting would be a more convenient way to make a shape like that.

The depth of the fins is not really important, as long as there is enough space for water to circulate around between rotor and stator at whatever flow rate you intend having.

There should also be a different number of fins on rotor and stator, usually one fin count difference.
Also known as the infamous "Warpspeed" on some other Forums.
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Postby Dave W » Sat Oct 18, 2008 7:40 am

tony how does the cast process work.

what material for a die.

what temp does alum melt.
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