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Tractorsport Flowbench Forum Archive • View topic - Guide to DIY wetflow testing.

Guide to DIY wetflow testing.

The old Wetflow forum was unrecoverable so I started a new one.

A place to talk about super secretive wet flow.

This is a closed forum only open to members, if you can read this then you are a member

Postby blaktopr » Sun Nov 30, 2008 1:49 pm

I want to put together a guide or list to help anyone looking to try wetflow testing. This is based on a draw through system.

1) The settleing box to capture the liquid. Not that difficult but something that has to be designed for your bench. If there is enough interest, a PTS wetbox plan can be done to compliment the PTS bench.

2) Clear cylinder. Acrilic tube found at McMaster Carr in 12" lengths. Can also be machined to get an exact bore size. I didnt do mine so I cant tell you how. Bruce helped me out on that one. Once machined, fine grit sandpaper and a buffing wheel in a drill press will get the cylinder about 90% to perfect. Enough to still see everything. I tried the heat trick and it started to warp the tube. Stick with the buffing and you will be fine.

3) Wax the cylinder. Helps keeping the fluid from attaching to it and forming more of a puddle on the tube wall. After about 10 tests, you can do it again to keep up on it. The droplets are easier to see on the wall and the drop size stays for longer.

4) Distilled water. I've done tests with tap well water and the distilled is a little better. The pattern is the same but droplet sizes seem to be slightly different.

5) Don't use dish soap to try to reduce surface tention. It will foam up screwing with the results. I only use the water.

6) Simple food coloring dye.

7) White Dykem for the visual contrast with dark colored water. The Dykem spray goes on thick. You may have to experiment with spray nozzles to get a finer spray. The stuff goes on thick and runs to low spots. You don't want that. Take your time, get a thin even coat and be sure it is not on the seats. Will mess with the results.

8) I don't think we can produce enough black light to mimick the professionals. But for DIY'ers, there is alot to learn without going that route.

9) Fluid delivery. A 1/16 tube with a .0025 hole at the end of the side of the tube. Close the open end and seal. The hole size can vary but the smallest you can get is better and the amounts can be still added through that small hole.
This is what you can do...
A) A simple water bottle to start. Epoxy two tubes into the cap, brass. One tube just below the cap, one tube down to the bottom of the bottle. The short tube is your high pressure side, the other the low. Fill the bottle. Hook the low side with some hose to the end of your 1/16 tube and leave the high side open to air. The little hole faces down the port and draws fluid in. You can also hook a hose to the high side and stick it in your mouth while making a test run. Just blow into the tube and you will introduce more fluid into the port. This is good if there is a position away from the port you put the probe or when testing at lower lifts where there is slower speeds in the port.
B) Same bottle setup but with the high pressure side hooked to the exhaust pressure from the bench or an air compressor. Use a cheap air valve or regulator to adjust the pressurization of the bottle. This setup can also be used when using a perimeter injection device found at the port entrance.

I'll give more info when I compile some things about the effects of the amounts of fluid used. It really dont change the pattern. Plus some other things.
Chris.
Chris Sikorski
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Postby blaktopr » Sun Nov 30, 2008 1:50 pm

Oh, a mirror and a camera too. Mirror helps to see up to the chamber.
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Postby 49-1183904562 » Sun Nov 30, 2008 7:47 pm

Chris,

Does the position of the head play any role in your testing, like shoud it be set at its natural deck angle?

Rick
49-1183904562
 

Postby blaktopr » Sun Nov 30, 2008 8:26 pm

Good point Rick. I took the old setup off that did mimick the angle. In time, I may put it back on. I saw no change in pattern, but how much the liquid favored the ssr in that position and with an intake. Plus it is a BEAR to work on with changes made to the port or trying to document! I figured at the speeds vs distance the fluid may not be able to stay suspended at the test pressures I originally tested at. Once I am close to achieving the dry air profile I want on my head, I will do a back to back test at 28" with varying fluid amounts and vids, to see what the difference is between the two. For me IMO, there are loads of info even at a nornal position.. Just think, PS guys are finding gains and the head is mounted chamber out.

Chris.
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Postby Half-Inch Stud » Mon Dec 15, 2008 9:16 pm

Chris,

Do you bolt the Intake manifold on and feed through a Carb Baseplate (and tape-shut all other ports/leaks)? Or do you flow into a single Intake Runner?
HIS
12.9s @ 106.5MPH on 87 Octane, no ping. <--should be high 11's but I dunno why I'm so slow.
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Postby blaktopr » Mon Dec 15, 2008 10:41 pm

Hey Mark. Did it with the carb on feeding from all and one barrel, seaparate tests. I have to find where I put it. Here is one thread
The answer to that question and the results are on the last page.
Chris Sikorski
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Postby blaktopr » Fri Jan 02, 2009 7:58 pm

I figure I pop this in here. Tried a few tests with some dye in water. So far all a bust. Stuff has been freezing up and is still hard to see through tube when trying to view it "professional style". Black water with white chamber/runner with a draw through system is best so far as a good learning tool. Once I get the new motors installed, I am going to try it the other way. With a tube and without like DM did on his vids. Plus just set up some mattress foam type stuff on a wall to catch the liquid instead of the whole catch can system. Doing it cheap in the DIY fashon. Not only will I see how different the patterns may be but then try the fluorecent dye/black light deal again to check the exit around the valve independent of the chamber/wall.
Chris.
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Postby msj442 » Fri Jan 02, 2009 11:14 pm

awesome deal chris. it is really cool to see people going the extra mile to compete witht the competion that is how do we say untouchable? i think you know what i mean. just us simple guys can have a piece of the pie.
great information!!!
thanks,max
how about those plans to add to the PTS bench?! you take paypal right? lol
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Postby blaktopr » Sat Jan 03, 2009 1:52 pm

Bruce and I have not really gone into it in depth yet. Just some ideas thrown around. He has been busy with the computers and me with some head R&D. I'm glad to see that you are interested and I been thinking bout the plans in regards to simplicity, quality, usefullness, adaptability, cost, etc. I saw how simplicity works when looking over the PTS bench. I wouldn't want to throw something together on a whim. I want to be sure that it would do what is said to be done and that it is not a POS.
So just like the computer developed here, so will this setup. design criteria so far as follows.

Cheap to build for DIY'er
Easy to build and get materials for
Adaptability for any bench
Able to be used in both directions. (wet and dry)
Possibility of being used remotely from main bench
Small enough not to take up alot of space
Easy to convert back and forth if not to be used.
Thats a few of them....Oh, and quality. I don't care how mine looks or works as long as it does. For others, thats a different story.
Thanks,
Chris.
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Postby msj442 » Sat Jan 03, 2009 6:26 pm

good deal any way you look at it i guess. agree with the it should work good concept. i figure cosmetic can always come later if desired. i do hope you decide to get a little serious on the public design. i am in aw every day on this forum. i like to think i have alot of knowledge when it comes to airflow,but when i come here i feel like day one when i started porting again. it is my daily routine several times a day to stop by here.
good work chris.
thanks,max
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Postby blaktopr » Sat Jan 03, 2009 11:35 pm

Thanks Max, I am taking it serious. So serious that I found I may have to be looking over my shoulder. So many great things being produced here. I am hoping I can contribute another fine product.
Chris.
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