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Tractorsport Flowbench Forum Archive • View topic - Porting and Polishing finish
Page 1 of 1

PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 8:38 pm
by maxracesoftware
What name brand cartridge rolls and grits have worked the best for you ??

what grit finish or other methods are you using to put final finish on ports and chambers,
in either cast-iron or aluminum heads ??

PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 10:14 pm
by 86rocco
My experience is somewhat limited (a few aluminium heads only) but I've had good success using a long shank 1/2" carbide burr (single cut cylindrical radius end) to remove the bulk of the material, 80 grit 1/2" and 1" cartridge rolls from Standard Abrasives to fine tune the ports and 3/4" and 1 1/4" 120 grit flapper wheels of an unknown brand from a local supplier to put a nice mat finish on the ports. I used an air-power die grinder for the burr and rolls and a dremel with a shaft drive for the flapper wheels.

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2004 3:56 am
by maxracesoftware
86rocco and everyone else,

are you using any kind of electrical speed or rpm control device ??

if so...what Brand name and also where can you purchase it ?? Link or website ??


86rocco .... did you ever try out or use Merit or Norton cartridge rolls ??

using WD-40 or LPS-2 spray with solid carbide and aluminum ports ?

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2004 10:32 am
by 86rocco
I haven't found it necessary to use a speed controller, the few times I needed to reduce the speed of the bit I just reduced my air pressure setting. I've only used two brand of cartridge rolls the Stardard one and unknown ones from a local supplier. I use abrasives pretty sparingly, my workhorse is the curbide burr, I love that thing. I use WD40 but occasionally I still get aluminium clogging the burr but because it's a single cut and not too fine a cut it's easy to clear. I've also used the burr on various cast iron and steel parts with reasonable success.

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2004 3:16 pm
by Shawn
I've allways used bee's wax on the bit when doing aluminum. It really helps to keep it from clogging up, and it's not nearly as messy.
Shawn

PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2004 11:24 pm
by SWB
I've used Merit. They are very hard and don't do so well in certain situations. You can re-shape them on a concrete block or something similar though. I use sanding belts on a split rod for most of my finishing because the sanding belt material is pretty tough stuff. I only use WD-40 when an alumaburr gets dull, or when I'm using a standard burr on aluminum.

SWB

PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2005 4:25 am
by JRM
I know this is an old topic but I have found good old bar soap to work real good when your cutting alum with a carbide cutter. Then I finish off the intake with 80 grit and the exhaust with 120

PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:31 am
by RWD19T
For removing material I use Aluma Burs from Menlo with a very low speed setting on a variable air die grinder.
On the exhaust I then blend using a combination of 120 grit flapper wheels on a 4in arbour (small screw on type) for the bowl area. And combinations of 120 grit cartridge rolls for the short turn and main runners.
I then finish the exhaust of with crossbuffs for a polished finish.
Intakes I do the same as exhausts but leave it at 80 grit.

PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:28 pm
by pablo
Go to www.Mondello.com
Then click on Tool Catolog. I use alot his products. His Carbide burrs and port lubricant are the best. The reverse taper carbide is a must for short side radius work.
Also www.sri-suppliies.com This is a division of Stock Car Steel. (www.stockcarsteel.com)

PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 6:17 pm
by SWR

PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 10:38 am
by larrycavan
I don't use anything for lube with a double cut carbide. A mixture of ATF and WD40 for single cut or hogs seems to work pretty good for me.

KayRolls from Mondello are pretty nice when used properly