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Posted:
Sun Jan 01, 2006 10:24 amby Mousehouse1
Thanks Nick. Those helped explain it. I was wondering how you did the stoppers. What brand of deck plates did you use?
What kind of clay did you use in the above photo? I used modeling clay but it doesn't want to stick to the head on the upper flow numbers. It trys to get sucked through the port. I had a intake radius made and that will cure that problem.
Posted:
Sun Jan 01, 2006 1:22 pmby Peter
Nick,
The hex part, attached to the dial indicator for adjustment, did you make this and if so can you provide a drawing or describition ?
Posted:
Sun Jan 01, 2006 2:18 pmby gofaster
To keep the valves from sucking open during flow tests, I use old inner valve springs. They're a lot stiffer than the checking springs they sell.
Posted:
Sun Jan 01, 2006 5:28 pmby larrycavan
Find yourself a stock pile of old Mikuni carbs from somewhere and grab every throttle slide spring you can get your hands on. They're perfect for flowbench use as valve springs...
Posted:
Sun Jan 01, 2006 6:23 pmby Nick
The deck plates are Becksons. They work great.
The clay is Play Dough from the store. If you let it sit out or let your kid play with it, it will get stiffer and stay put. Fresh out of the can it is to soft and will not stay.
The valve opening fixture is a 3/8 coupler nut, with a 3/8 tread all and a t handle on the top. I'll post a picture of the back side tonight.
For springs I have tried a few different ones and settled on one that is not to stiff. IF it is to stiff the fixture will deflect and not show true lift. I am going to build a better one, that slides down a bar, like the pro ones. This works good but takes to long to set up.
Nick
Posted:
Sun Jan 01, 2006 7:49 pmby Peter
Nick,
I'm working on one that slides, that's why I asked about the hex part. I will post pictures as soon as it's done, but it's simple, uses a 4 ft piece of T-Track, cut in half and then bolted back to back. Total cost so far $85.00
Posted:
Sun Jan 01, 2006 10:14 pmby 86rocco
Posted:
Sun Jan 01, 2006 10:29 pmby Nick
Here is the back side. This is a 1x1/8 flat steel welded to the coupler nut. I machined down the bottom so it would go all the way down on the dial indicator. It does not get much simpler than this. The other parts are from the dial indicators stand.
Nick
Posted:
Sun Jan 01, 2006 11:30 pmby Jesse Lackman
Cool original design.
Who loves Jessica?
Probably more important does Jessica love wet flowed french fries?
Posted:
Mon Jan 02, 2006 12:06 amby Mouse
That is so frickin awsome!
You can compensate for the deflection by mounting a dial indicator to the head of the valve and mapping the deflection for each lift value.
Posted:
Mon Jan 02, 2006 10:08 amby gofaster
If you put the indicator on an independent arm from the valve opener, you don't have to worry about deflection. Otherwise, you need an opening jig that is extremely rigid. For Harley testing, I use cast iron fixtures that are made by Ron Trock. Very rigid units.
Posted:
Mon Jan 02, 2006 12:48 pmby Thomas Vaught
Some people mount the dial indicator on the valve retainer and use a mechanical screw to push the valve tip. That way the dial indicator sees less side to side movement on the stem of the indicator from the turning of the screw.
Tom V.
Posted:
Mon Jan 02, 2006 3:23 pmby Nick
I never said it was perfect. I needed something to get started. There is not enough deflection to matter. Maybe a few tho at full lift if that much. This deal works real well, it's just a little slow to set it up. Very repeatable. Ace hardware has A nice selection of springs.
Nick Loves Jessica, of course! Jessica likes here fries with ketchup, No water added. I though about taking that out of the pic, but I figured you would just ignore it, guess not. 
Nick
Posted:
Mon Jan 02, 2006 6:44 pmby Thomas Vaught
I personally never mean any disrespect to anyone when I post. I just pass on ideas vs suggestions.
Tom V.
Posted:
Mon Jan 02, 2006 8:42 pmby larrycavan