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Tractorsport Flowbench Forum Archive • View topic - 200 CFM Research

200 CFM Research

Share whatca have found? Brainstorming? Only open to members

Postby 200cfm » Wed May 27, 2009 9:33 am

Hey, I like that layout! Here is the quote from Barnhouse. "Round ports will flow more volume if the round port is straight and the CSA is constant. The minute that a turn occurs in a round port, the air will "glue in" harder against the bottom of the port turn and increase surface friction or drag. If this area is flatten out, the air will spread out, allowing more of the air to short cut the turn, thereby reducing boundary layer friction and increasing air flow through the turn."

How about this design. Use a round tube exhaust for the straight part and on any turns or bends use a flatter square wall for the turn in the exhaust. That would combine the best of both worlds. Would be interesting to flow bench the tubing on such a layout to see how the cfm is influenced.

Have you ever notice people post their exhaust valve flow data but I never see flow data for the same exhausting port with say the header or in my case the turbo plumbing attached. Yet the intake side is generally flowed with and without the intake manifold.
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Postby 200cfm » Wed Sep 02, 2009 10:27 pm

Long summer and trying to get back on the bench. Working on new heads for the new 298 motor that is still pending.

Here it is taking a bath in the garage. :)

Image

Have started on one intake port. Here is the problem. I have no air speeds along the roof section. Very dead. Get plenty of fps along the floor and mid section but just dead along all the roof section. Never seen this on any of the other heads I have experimented on or raced. Could it be the pitot manometer? Shouldn't be because I get over 350 fps across the SSR. Maybe I am doing something wrong. Just surprised the roof is so dead or high in pressure zone to barely move the pitot fluid.

I can put my finger on the roof and sense no air pull. Put the finger along the floor and can sense the air pulling.

Anyone ever had a port roof to be slow. Seems impossible if I believe my eyes.
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Postby Otto » Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:45 pm

Otto

just another one man show
workin to play
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Postby larrycavan » Thu Sep 03, 2009 9:37 pm

What's the port shape?

Does it neck down a bunch at the SSR [top to bottom]?
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Postby msj442 » Thu Sep 03, 2009 11:02 pm

off the subject a bit but what do you got going on the cleaning situation? battery charger? never seen this. fill me in .

max ???
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Postby Flash » Fri Sep 04, 2009 12:35 am

Gordon
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Postby slracer » Fri Sep 04, 2009 10:58 am

Anybody got a "secret" way to clean aluminum? -- Doug
I choose NOT to be an ordinary man because it is my right to be uncommon if I can! - unknown
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Postby johno » Fri Sep 04, 2009 4:41 pm

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Postby Greg » Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:26 am

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Postby larrycavan » Sat Sep 05, 2009 11:36 am

Doug,

To degrease and clean, Superclean spray works the best I've found so far.

To brighten after soda or glass basting.....I'm still open on that one. Sounds like the acid wash someone mentioned by be the ticket there.

Been told muriatic acid works but have never tried it.
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Postby slracer » Sat Sep 05, 2009 9:49 pm

Larry, Do you use the degreaser or the wheel cleaner? Of course, it really makes no difference as I never have time to actually CLEAN something, I just think I should! :p

Doug
I choose NOT to be an ordinary man because it is my right to be uncommon if I can! - unknown
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Postby larrycavan » Mon Sep 07, 2009 5:54 pm

The Super Clean is degreaser.

What's anybody got that will restore the brightness to cast aluminum after it's been blasted?

I see products out there advertised.
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Postby johno » Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:23 pm

The acid alloy cleaner i use is actually called "Aluminium Cleaner" and is a sulphuric acid base so try not to get it in any cuts on your hands or breath the vapour cos it burns like #### either way!! Theres a company called 'Sierra Chemicals' that make the product, makes alloy shiney and new! :;):
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Postby 49-1183904562 » Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:02 pm

Larry,

I use plain old Aluminum Jelly from the hardware store, then dilute it in distilled water about 20 to 1 it will give blasted AL that fresh cast look but gives the machined surface a sort of milky tone.

I have tried many acids BioKlean (Bike Magik Aluma-Kleen)makes one that does very well on good castings but if the alloy has to much Zinc it will black streak.

My latest project is an old dish washer with tank heater and recirc pump will use simple green and anti foam agent.

Rick

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Postby jsa » Sat Sep 12, 2009 5:26 am

I use a citrus based degreaser from the local auto parts places.
Cheers

John
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